Now that it’s cuddle-up-on-the-couch season, it’s just the right time
for a new afghan. Add a little splash of color to your decor with the Hue Shift Aghan!
This afghan is knit in Garter stitch mitered squares. The squares are
picked up and knit off of each other in four large segments, so that
the only seam required is to stitch the four segments together. Because
of this, it makes an easy travel project, because no one section is very
The 10 colors in the patterning of the afghan are arranged in such a
way that they create a wash of 100 slightly different, shifting shades.
This pattern is available in two colorways as a ready-to-knit kit: Rainbow and Decor. But, if you want to create your own colorful masterpiece, get the downloadable version and choose your own palette. With a little imagination, the color possibilities are much greater!
For instance, if you wanted a rich, jewel-toned blanket, try these colors…
The yoke is the most complicated part of a raglan sweater, but I think you’ll find that if you take it slow and work
carefully, it is not very hard at all! The trickiest thing is that the raglan decreases and neckline shaping will be worked
at the same time.This is also the most exciting part of the sweater–we are
nearing the finish line and for the first time, you’ll get to see your work really start to come together. Pun intended.
Let’s get started!
Read on for the videos and worksheet:
Hi Knitters! This final edition of the sweater class is all about
finishing. In this week’s video and handout, I’ll discuss weaving in
ends, how to finish your turned hem, closing up the underarms, and
working the neckline trim! Whew! Each step goes pretty fast, but make
sure to take the time to do these steps right, as a well-finished
sweater will look a lot better than one with sloppy finishing.
Check out our tutorials on finishing, too–they’ll give you a
lot of information on how to execute the techniques discussed in this
Another resource I really like and use a lot is Nancie Wiseman’s Knitter’s Book of Finishing Techniques, which is a wealth of information on every bit of swea=ter finishing you could imagine!
And without further ado, here’s your handout for this week:
Ok, are we all ready to start swatching? Last week we discussed yarn
choices and design dreaming, and this week we are going to solidify our
yarn choices (if you haven’t already!) and find the right needle to get
the fabric that your design requires! I’ve done some extensive
swatching (the results of which I share in the videos below) and have
settled on knitting my Swish Worsted on US 6 Zephyr needles.
Swatching can seem boring when you’re itching to cast on a
project, but it is one of the most essential parts of the design
process, so it deserves a lot of time and attention! In this lesson,
I’ll be giving tips on how to swatch for the fabric your design needs,
and then covering the measuring of gauge from your swatch, and the
measurements needed for a succesful knit. All this information ins
contained in the pdf linked below, which also has diagrams and blanks
for you to fill in with your personal gauge and measurments. Don’t
worry if you’re math-phobic; I’ve done my nest to keep it simple and to
walk you through all the claculations step-by-step!
Lesson 1: Swatching and Measuring
Read on for more info and Videos…
When I think of taking a Snow Day this winter, I imagine myself cozied up on the couch, watching fireplace videos, and knitting happily on all of the tiny treasures in our new Snow Day Ornament pattern!
Hi there! As you’ll see in this week’s video, my sweater is coming
along swimmingly! Now that I am deep in the process of working the waist
shaping, I am remembering why my row counter is my best friend!
This week, we’ll be discussing how to calculate the increases
and decreases that will shape the torso of your sweater to the finished
dimensions you desire. It may be helpful for you to look over and print
out this week’s handout so that you can follow along with the video
lesson, in which I’ll be walking you through all the math required in
this step. I promise, it’s not terribly hard Click the link below to
get the handout:
Lesson 3 – Shaping the Torso
And check out the videos below!
I raced through the body of my sweater in order to stay ahead of the
class, but even if you haven’t finished that sections, you can always
start on a sleeve!
Knitting sleeeves can be a welcome break from
working the torso of a sweater–they are more portable, and smaller, so
each round goes much faster and the length gows perceptibly, for a real
feeling of accomplishment! In this lesson, we’ll go over the math
behind sleeve shaping, and discuss some potential modifications that
allow you to get custom sleeves!
Click the link below for the handout:
Lesson 4: Sleeves
check out our videos, where I (somewhat tiredly–apologies! I should
maybe not shoot these lessons on Monday!) walk you through the math and
show how the formulas in the handout gave me the sleeve I want!
I am not usually a monogamous knitter, and the recent heat has made my
wosted-wool sweater project even less appealing. So I am a little
behind myself and I suspect some of you are, too! In the next phase of
our sweater designing, we will work the yoke and neckline, which means
two sets of calculations that must be worked at the same time! To make
that a little easier on everyone,and to give you all some time to catch
up, I’ve divided this section into two lessons. This week’s video
covers the basic shaping and construction o fthe neckline, and gives
ideas for how to decide what knid of neckline you want.
Watch the videos below:
Here at Knit Picks headquarters, there are a lot of talented folks.
Between us, Connecting Threads (our quilting division) and Artist’s Club
(our painting division), there are lots of different skills
represented. Recently we started having some lunchtime classes to share
these skills, and over the past two weeks I’ve been learning to crochet!
Now, this isn’t the first time I’ve learned to crochet. I believe
this is actually the fourth. Each time I try to learn, I inevitably do
something really wonky, and give up the failed attempt. But this time,
I’m determined to make it stick.
I grabbed one of our Harmony Crochet Hooks and some Brava Bulky, and set to making quite a mess of things. But after two lessons and a lot of “no, no, through that loop,” and “you’re going the wrong way!” from Jenny K and Kim, I managed to make my first granny squares!
They’re not stellar, but it is the first time I’ve ever crocheted something that looked like the thing it was supposed to be…
A very common question I get is, “how do I pick colors for my
colorwork project?” The short answer is that that’s a really personal
decision. You know what colors you like or that you like to wear, and
there’s no set aesthetic regarding what colors ‘should’ go together.
(believe me, since art school, my personal color palette includes all of
Generally, a safe bet for a 2-color sweater is to go with a light and
dark version of the same color. So, that means a dark red and light
red, dark blue and light blue, and so on. These colors can be
interchangeable, so it can be a light or dark background. This is great
if you have a favorite color in mind, or want to be completely sure that
the colors will look good together. If you want to use two colors that
you know go well together, be sure to use a light version of one and a
dark version of the other.
That said, choosing a basic palette for a garment starts with a few basic steps.